In Rome, I found plentiful evidence that birds had been seen in the past, at least by sculptors:
Unexpectedly, there was also a small flock of parrots hanging out there. They reminded me of the parrots I see in the Presidio. I don't know my parrots, but I think this is probably a Monk Parakeet. What's the difference between a parrot and a parakeet? DNA. How could a parrot-keet live in a non-tropical location? Well, Rome's not exactly cold, and there's plenty of tourist trash to eat. Also the berries from this tree, which looks like it's a yew.
Hooded crows were also ubiquitous throughout Rome. In fact this was the first kind of bird I saw after landing--perched along the roadside enroute from the airport.
Once we reached Sicily, there was still more artistic evidence that sometime in the past, it was inhabited by grotesque, bug-eyed eagles:
They taunted me, perching on nooks in the sheer wall and poking their little heads out.
Also enjoying the nooks of Castelbuono was a big flock of jackdaws. They look like stubby-faced crows. Later on, we saw them perched along the highway, hundreds of them, but all spaced out in pairs.
Another common bird was the collared dove, seen here mooning the photographer with its distinctive white tailfeathers.
We didn't find my dream bird (the hoopoe). We asked our host at a bed and breakfast we stayed at about it, but he didn't know the word "upupo." Then I tried to describe it as similar to a parrot, with a crest. He thought we meant the "ghiandaia," (literally "acornist") (turns out that is a jay), and explained that during this time of year they are all up in the mountains eating olives. Something to look for next time, I guess!

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